Whether you’re shaving waxing or tweezing, removing body hair can often lead to uncomfortable and disheartening ingrowns that leave inflamed bumps along the affected area. People with thick, dense textured hair are especially prone to ingrown hairs because of the curled or curved nature of their hair which makes it more likely to bend back on itself whilst growing out, causing a re-entrance into the skin.
An ingrown hair occurs at the growth (anagen) phase of the hair’s growth cycle, after a shaved or tweezed hair turns into the skin as a result of being trapped beneath your skin surface. This causes the hair follicle to become clogged with dead skin cells that would have naturally shed resulting in inflammation, acne-like puss-filled bumps and discolouration or, in the worst case, infection and scarring.
Mild to very moderate cases of ingrown hairs can be treated with over the counter cosmetic products. Here are 3 tips to help you avoid and treat ingrowns:
Use a Sharp Razor
For those of us whose method of choice is shaving, a sharp razor can prevent dragging, giving you a cleaner and closer shave. The British Association of Dermatologists recommends using single blades - more blades equal more dragging which means more trapped dirt and more opportunity to push hair below the surface of the skin. As always, we went digging to see whether this recommendation holds up and found some mixed reviews. While more were in favour of the single blade, multiple blades appeared to give the benefit of effectively shaving in one pass which lowers chances of shaving away too many cells and causing irritation on the skin, increasing the hair’s propensity to become trapped.
We recommend trialing both single or multiple blades to find what works best for you. In addition, keep your razor clean people! You should be looking to replace a razor every 6-8 shaves or monthly depending on how frequently you shave.
Exfoliate! Exfoliate! Exfoliate
Like we said, ingrown hairs are all about the dead skin cells accumulated in the hair follicle from the hair shaft turning into itself. Exfoliation plays a huge role in prevention and treatment because it helps to unclog the pores but also oftentimes addresses concerns of hyperpigmentation that come hand-in-hand with ingrown hairs.
If it’s your first time incorporating exfoliation into your hair removal routine, it’s worth noting that chemical exfoliants can sometimes sensitise the skin so it’s important to gently introduce them into your regimen to build up your skin’s tolerance.
Start by using one twice a week and build up from there but it’s unlikely you'll get to a point where you need to be exfoliating everyday (we still want to prevent over-exfoliating the skin). Also avoid using exfoliants immediately after hair removal to prevent burning and pair your routine with a good moisturiser and sunscreen to protect your skin’s barrier.
Product recommendation: The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Serum and Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA exfoliant
Lubricate!
Treating ingrown hairs starts before you even shave or pluck. Allowing a shaving oil, cream or balm to sit on the skin and hair a few minutes before softens the area and offers a smoother hair removal process. A warm water compress can also have a similar effect for those who want to do without product. Follow this up with your shaving gel or foam of choice and you should be on the right track to minimising your chances of ingrowns!
More aggressive cases of ingrown hairs will sometimes require a visit to the dermatologist who may recommend a course of antibiotics, laser hair removal or topical steroid creams to name a few possible solutions.